Prior to using your frames apply a light coat of Goo-Gone or similar product (found in most home centers and hardware stores) to the back of the frame and wipe off. This leaves a very light film of the residue behind so the sticky backing releases easier. Most importantly, remove the sticky backing from the frame as soon as you complete your project by pulling it off slowly. The longer it remains applied the tackier it becomes and the harder it is to remove.
Take the excess you removed and make a ball with the sticky portion facing out. Then, dab the frame to remove any remaining adhesive residue. Another method is to let the frame soak in a sink overnight with a small amount of dish washing detergent. Use just enough water to cover the bottom of the frame and not damage the label on top of the frame.
If you have excess residue you can use a PLASTIC paint scraper or PLASTIC scouring pad or Magic Eraser. NEVER use anything METAL to scrape the frames. Each frame has an anodized coating that seals the aluminum frame and you should never scratch the frame.
Questions Concerning Traditional Hoops
When is tighter looser? Many embroidery hoops, including those manufactured by Durkee Embroidery, have brass adjusting screws that fit inside sleeves hidden within the hoop. This type of screw is designed to be tightened with the thumb and forefinger before the inner hoop is inserted.
When the inner ring is placed in the outer ring, the adjusting screw is set; further tightening only breaks the lock achieved with the insertion of the inner hoop. Never tighten this style of hoop with pliers or another tool. Hand tighten only, and only before the inner hoop is inserted.
Which Hoop Size Is Right?
For optimum design registration, it is important to use a hoop that is closest to the size of the design. This will help eliminate puckering as well as wasting other supplies, such as backing or topping.
|Size||Common Uses||Actual Sewing Area|
|9 cm||cuffs, collars, pockets, hat sides||8.1 cm diameter
|12 cm||hat backs, hat sides, smaller left chest||11.2 cm diameter
|15 cm||most popular left chest size||14.2 cm diameter
|18 cm||larger left chest, small jacket backs||17.1 cm diameter
|15 cm x 15 cm||tote bags, back packs, small jacket backs||15.5 cm (6”)|
|24 cm x 24 cm||children's clothing, ideal for larger square designs that round hoops cannot accommodate.||23.2 cm x 23.2 cm
(9.25" x 9.25")
|30 cm x 15 cm||hoop may be used 30cm wide and 15cm deep or 15cm wide and 30cm deep, ideal for long narrow designs on bags, sleeves, pantlegs or shirt yokes.||30 cm x 15 cm
(11 7/8" x 6")
|335 mm x 329 mm||jacket backs, accommodates large designs, adult full fronts, widest double-height hoop on the market for popular 360 and 380 needle spacing.||29.5 mm x 29.5 mm
(11 5/8 " x 11 5/8")
|410 mm x 300 mm||accommodates very large designs, double-height, ideal for the largest designs on jacket backs, blankets, flags, etc.||29.5 mm x 40 mm
(11 5/8" x 16")
Needle Spacing Guide
We thought it might be helpful to share a simple way of determining needle spacing or sewing field. The easiest way is to measure one of your current hoops from the tip of one metal stamping to the tip of the other. Another way is to measure the distance between arms on your tubular machines. Here is a list of conversions from millimeters to inches for the needle spacingsthat we carry.
|Machine Brand||Needle Spacing||Conversion (approximate)|
|Tajima, Brother, Toyota||360 mm||14 inches|
|Happy||360 mm||14 inches|
|Happy||500 mm||19 1/2 inches|
|Barudan||380 mm||15 inches|
|Barudan||520 mm||20 1/4 inches|
|Melco||400 mm||15 1/2 inches|
|SWF||360 mm||14 inches|
|SWF||400 mm||15 1/2 inches|
|SWF||450 mm||17 1/2 inches|
|SWF||500 mm||19 1/2 inches|
|ZSK||400 mm||15 1/2 inches|
|ZSK||495 mm||19 1/2 inches|